Sheer base, spot work, cream colour.
Anti-pancake everyday
Looked-after rather than made-up.
Projected pancake risk34
Skin-like66
6 objects · 7 min
Gives up the comfort of full coverage on the days you want to hide.
Step into the edit · Fifth Avenue, ground floor
The
Edit
risk 60 · skin-like 40 · 4 films · 7 min
Start from a smart path — each one already costed for pancake risk, objects and minutes — then revise every field underneath it. Nothing here flatters you. It scores you.
Pancake risk 60 out of 100 · finish skin-like 40
Pancake risk
60
Cake pressure building
Finish · skin-like 40·base 30 + variables
Two decisions are fighting each other — usually coverage appetite against dehydration or sebum. Trade opacity for placement.
Skin-likePancake
Objects
5/5
Films
4
Tension
10
Smart paths
Smart paths in, each one honest about the trade
1 of 18
swipe
Match · pancake risk 60 of 100 · 5 objects · 4 films
Makeup Match
Product types scored against your profile. Layer weight is penalised, not celebrated.
Move one input
What each adjustment would actually cost you
Every row is the same engine re-run with one field changed. Nothing here is applied until you touch the instrument panel.
Add the anti-pancake goal
-16 riskGoal added · risk 44 · 5 objects
Reweights every base score toward skin-like.
Drop coverage 15
-14 risk28 → 13 · risk 46 · 5 objects
The single most efficient lever in the system.
Allow one touch-up
-13 riskMaintenance 1 → 2 · risk 47 · 5 objects
Blotting at 2pm buys back more than any product does.
Cut five minutes
-8 risk10 → 5 min · risk 52 · 5 objects
A shorter routine physically cannot over-build.
Tighten the ceiling
-7 risk5 → 4 products · risk 53 · 4 objects
Forces the weakest lane out of the kit.
Let desire rise
0 riskDesire 1 → 2 · risk 60 · 5 objects
Where the appetite lands when you permit it.
Add coverage 15
+7 risk28 → 43 · risk 67 · 5 objects
What it costs you to ask for more evening.
Score model · transparent
Pancake risk = 30 + variables · finish (skin-like) = 100 − risk
Live total 60 risk · 40 skin-like. Positive deltas raise pancake risk (and lower finish). Open Insights for every coefficient.
Coverage appetiteLayer countDehydration stressSebum movementMaintenance toleranceTime on the faceDesireAnti-pancake / wear-less goals
Layer count (4)
+7weight · max(0, layers−3)×7 − max(0, 3−layers)×5
Few layers — architecture is doing the work instead of product.
Sebum movement
+7weight · oilStress 7 × 1
Oil will move the base and you do not want to touch it up — so it has to be thin.
Rosacea-prone architecture
+6weight · +6 (rosacea goal or reactive + redness)
Full-face opacity is the reflex answer to redness and the wrong one. Placement first.
Reactivity
+5weight · +5 (sensitivity ≥ 2)
Reactive skin tolerates fewer films, and heavy removal adds its own insult.
Maintenance tolerance
+4weight · 8 − maintenance × 4
No touch-ups means the finish must be correct at 8am and forgiving by 4pm.
Desire
+2weight · desire ≥ 3 → +9 · 0 → −10 · else +2
Moderate appetite, easily satisfied with colour rather than base.
Coverage appetite
-1weight · (coverage − 30) × 0.45
Moderate coverage stays inside the skin-like band.
Dehydration stress
0weight · dryStress 0 × 0.55
Environment is not fighting the film much.
Time on the face
0weight · ≤5 min → −8 · ≥25 min → +7 · else 0
Enough time to place product, not enough to over-build.
Core of the architecture
Colour corrector
spot
Fit96
Layer weight1 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Delivers almost exactly the coverage you asked for.
- — Targets redness where it is, instead of covering the whole face.
- — Less surface area covered means less to react to.
Desk examples · Tower 28 MakeWaves · Ere Perez Arnica All-Cover Pot
Core of the architecture
Green redness corrector
spot
Fit93
Layer weight1 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Delivers almost exactly the coverage you asked for.
- — Targets redness where it is, instead of covering the whole face.
- — Less surface area covered means less to react to.
Desk examples · Tower 28 SOS Daily Rescue Corrector · NYX Color Correcting Concealer (green) · LA Girl Pro Conceal green
Core of the architecture
Performance sport tint
base
Fit92
Layer weight1 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Delivers almost exactly the coverage you asked for.
- — Holds up against sebum movement.
- — One object, several jobs — protects a short kit.
Desk examples · Supergoop! Glowscreen sport-leaning tints · Coola Mineral Face Matte Tint · Huda Beauty Faux Filter Skin Tint (sheered)
Core of the architecture
Pressed powder compact
finish
Fit88
Layer weight1 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Delivers almost exactly the coverage you asked for.
- — Holds up against sebum movement.
- — Honours your mineral filter.
Desk examples · bareMinerals Mineral Veil Pressed · Jane Iredale PurePressed Base
Core of the architecture
Powder bronzer
colour
Fit86
Layer weight1 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Delivers almost exactly the coverage you asked for.
- — Holds up against sebum movement.
- — Honours your mineral filter.
Desk examples · Youngblood Pressed Mineral Bronzer
Core of the architecture
Hydrating under-eye corrector
spot
Fit83
Layer weight1 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Targets redness where it is, instead of covering the whole face.
- — Less surface area covered means less to react to.
- · Can slide or go patchy on oilier zones.
Desk examples · Kosas Revealer · Rose Inc Softlight
Core of the architecture
Long-wear cheek stain
colour
Fit83
Layer weight0 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Holds up against sebum movement.
- — Adds zero opacity to the stack.
Desk examples · Benefit Benetint-style stains · Océane Lip Tint · e.l.f. Camo Liquid Blush (sheer stain pass)
Core of the architecture
Liquid blush
colour
Fit82
Layer weight1 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — One object, several jobs — protects a short kit.
Desk examples · Tower 28 BeachPlease Lip + Cheek · Saie Dew Blush
Core of the architecture
Brow gel
eye
Fit81
Layer weight0 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Adds zero opacity to the stack.
- — One object, several jobs — protects a short kit.
Desk examples · ILIA Essential Brow Gel
Core of the architecture
Tinted lip balm
lip
Fit81
Layer weight0 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Adds zero opacity to the stack.
- — One object, several jobs — protects a short kit.
Desk examples · ILIA Balmy Tint · ILIA Balmy Gloss Lip Oil
Core of the architecture
Skin blur balm
base
Fit81
Layer weight1 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Delivers almost exactly the coverage you asked for.
- — One object, several jobs — protects a short kit.
Desk examples · Jones Road Miracle Balm · Hourglass Veil Hybrid
Core of the architecture
Satin lipstick
lip
Fit81
Layer weight0 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Adds zero opacity to the stack.
- — One object, several jobs — protects a short kit.
Desk examples · Axiology Balmies · Kjaer Weis Lipstick · Vapour Siren Lipstick
Core of the architecture
Tinted mineral SPF
base
Fit80
Layer weight1 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Delivers almost exactly the coverage you asked for.
- — Honours your mineral filter.
Desk examples · Colorescience Flex SPF 50 · EltaMD UV Elements SPF 44 · Supergoop! CC Screen SPF 50
Core of the architecture
Strategic concealer
spot
Fit80
Layer weight1 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Targets redness where it is, instead of covering the whole face.
- — Less surface area covered means less to react to.
- · Gives more opacity than you said you wanted.
Desk examples · Kosas Revealer · Tower 28 Swipe Serum · RMS UnCoverup
Core of the architecture
Multipurpose complexion stick
base
Fit78
Layer weight1 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Delivers almost exactly the coverage you asked for.
- — One object, several jobs — protects a short kit.
- · Can slide or go patchy on oilier zones.
Desk examples · Merit The Complexion Stick · Ogee Sculpted Complexion Stick · Glo HD Mineral Stick
Core of the architecture
Blotting papers
finish
Fit78
Layer weight0 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Holds up against sebum movement.
- — Adds zero opacity to the stack.
Desk examples · Tatcha Aburatorigami
Core of the architecture
Shine-control stick
finish
Fit78
Layer weight0 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Holds up against sebum movement.
- — Adds zero opacity to the stack.
Desk examples · Clear balm-format shine sticks
Core of the architecture
Untinted mineral SPF
care
Fit78
Layer weight0 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Honours your mineral filter.
Desk examples · EltaMD UV Clear · Coola Mineral Face SPF 30
Claim literacy · makeup that borrows skincare language
Named · dosed · tested · when not to buy
SPF, treatment and hybrid claims do not thin a film. If the active is not named and dosed, you are buying mood. Full cards live on Insights — a sample of the desk:
spf
Tinted mineral SPF 30–50 in a foundation or tint
A tinted SPF earns the bag when UV is a real job that day and you will lay a continuous film. It loses the bag the moment you use it as a sheer glow with no reapply plan.
When not to buy
When you will sheer it to a stain, blot half of it off by noon, or treat it as all-day beach cover without reapplication. Half a film is half the SPF.
spf
Chemical or hybrid SPF inside a skin tint
Hybrid SPF is honest when it replaces a second step you would skip. It is vanity when it is a second SPF on top of a full mineral fluid you already wear.
When not to buy
Sensitive or fragrance-reactive days when the hybrid also carries scent; or when you already wear a dedicated SPF and the tint's SPF is just noise on the label.
spf
SPF setting powder / brush-on SPF
Brush-on SPF earns a pocket slot for reapplication over makeup. It loses the bag the day you cancel real SPF because the powder 'has SPF too'.
When not to buy
As your only UV product on a high-UV day. Powder SPF is a midday assist, not architecture.
treatment
'Treatment' foundation with niacinamide
Named and mid-list niacinamide is a nice-to-have. Unnamed 'brightening treatment' is a mood board. Buy the texture; do not pay prestige for a ghost percentage.
When not to buy
When you already use a properly dosed niacinamide serum and the foundation is thicker than you need. You are buying film, not more science.
Type-score weights (sample): Coverage match · Sebum behaviour · Dehydration behaviour — full table on Insights.
Pipeline runs
The run console
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Type scoring
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Kit build
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Architecture
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Pathways
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Tools
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Bag edit
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Coaching
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