Sheer base, spot work, cream colour.
Anti-pancake everyday
Looked-after rather than made-up.
Projected pancake risk34
Skin-like66
6 objects · 7 min
Gives up the comfort of full coverage on the days you want to hide.
Step into the edit · Fifth Avenue, ground floor
The
Edit
risk 52 · skin-like 48 · 4 films · 11 min
Start from a smart path — each one already costed for pancake risk, objects and minutes — then revise every field underneath it. Nothing here flatters you. It scores you.
Pancake risk 52 out of 100 · finish skin-like 48
Pancake risk
52
Cake pressure building
Finish · skin-like 48·base 30 + variables
Two decisions are fighting each other — usually coverage appetite against dehydration or sebum. Trade opacity for placement.
Skin-likePancake
Objects
7/7
Films
4
Tension
15
Smart paths
Smart paths in, each one honest about the trade
1 of 18
swipe
Match · pancake risk 52 of 100 · 7 objects · 4 films
Makeup Match
Product types scored against your profile. Layer weight is penalised, not celebrated.
Move one input
What each adjustment would actually cost you
Every row is the same engine re-run with one field changed. Nothing here is applied until you touch the instrument panel.
Allow one touch-up
-13 riskMaintenance 1 → 2 · risk 39 · 7 objects
Blotting at 2pm buys back more than any product does.
Drop coverage 15
-7 risk38 → 23 · risk 45 · 7 objects
The single most efficient lever in the system.
Tighten the ceiling
-7 risk7 → 6 products · risk 45 · 6 objects
Forces the weakest lane out of the kit.
Cut five minutes
0 risk12 → 7 min · risk 52 · 7 objects
A shorter routine physically cannot over-build.
Add coverage 15
+6 risk38 → 53 · risk 58 · 7 objects
What it costs you to ask for more evening.
Let desire rise
+7 riskDesire 2 → 3 · risk 59 · 7 objects
Where the appetite lands when you permit it.
Score model · transparent
Pancake risk = 30 + variables · finish (skin-like) = 100 − risk
Live total 52 risk · 48 skin-like. Positive deltas raise pancake risk (and lower finish). Open Insights for every coefficient.
Coverage appetiteLayer countDehydration stressSebum movementMaintenance toleranceTime on the faceDesireAnti-pancake / wear-less goals
Anti-pancake goal
-9weight · −9 (escape-pancake or wear-less)
The stated goal reorders scoring toward skin-like pathways first.
Layer count (4)
+7weight · max(0, layers−3)×7 − max(0, 3−layers)×5
Few layers — architecture is doing the work instead of product.
Sebum movement
+7weight · oilStress 7 × 1
Oil will move the base and you do not want to touch it up — so it has to be thin.
Deep depth + undertone pressure
+7weight · depth ≥ 8 → +4 · olive/red/deep-neutral lean → +3
Short ranges force over-application to force a match — match first, never more layers.
Coverage appetite
+4weight · (coverage − 30) × 0.45
Moderate coverage stays inside the skin-like band.
Maintenance tolerance
+4weight · 8 − maintenance × 4
No touch-ups means the finish must be correct at 8am and forgiving by 4pm.
Desire
+2weight · desire ≥ 3 → +9 · 0 → −10 · else +2
Moderate appetite, easily satisfied with colour rather than base.
Dehydration stress
0weight · dryStress 0 × 0.55
Environment is not fighting the film much.
Time on the face
0weight · ≤5 min → −8 · ≥25 min → +7 · else 0
Enough time to place product, not enough to over-build.
Core of the architecture
HD optical blur base
base
Fit96
Layer weight1 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Delivers almost exactly the coverage you asked for.
- — Longevity earned through the right product, not more base.
- — Lets undertone show — critical on deep and olive bands.
Desk examples · Hourglass Veil Hydrating Skin Tint · Makeup by Mario SoftSculpt (light pass) · Laura Mercier Flawless Fusion (sheer)
Core of the architecture
Performance sport tint
base
Fit93
Layer weight1 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Holds up against sebum movement.
- — Longevity earned through the right product, not more base.
- — Lets undertone show — critical on deep and olive bands.
Desk examples · Supergoop! Glowscreen sport-leaning tints · Coola Mineral Face Matte Tint · Huda Beauty Faux Filter Skin Tint (sheered)
Core of the architecture
Multipurpose complexion stick
base
Fit92
Layer weight1 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Delivers almost exactly the coverage you asked for.
- — Longevity earned through the right product, not more base.
- — Lets undertone show — critical on deep and olive bands.
- · Can slide or go patchy on oilier zones.
Desk examples · Merit The Complexion Stick · Ogee Sculpted Complexion Stick · Glo HD Mineral Stick
Core of the architecture
Accessible multi-stick
base
Fit88
Layer weight1 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Delivers almost exactly the coverage you asked for.
- — Longevity earned through the right product, not more base.
- — Lets undertone show — critical on deep and olive bands.
Desk examples · e.l.f. Camo Hydrating Multi-Stick · NYX Bare With Me Tinted Skin Veil · Maybelline Super Stay Skin Tint
Core of the architecture
Long-wear cheek stain
colour
Fit87
Layer weight0 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Holds up against sebum movement.
- — Adds zero opacity to the stack.
- — Longevity earned through the right product, not more base.
Desk examples · Benefit Benetint-style stains · Océane Lip Tint · e.l.f. Camo Liquid Blush (sheer stain pass)
Core of the architecture
Serum skin tint
base
Fit85
Layer weight1 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Lets undertone show — critical on deep and olive bands.
Desk examples · ILIA Super Serum Skin Tint SPF 40 · Saie Slip Tint SPF 35 · Kosas BB Burst
Core of the architecture
Pressed powder compact
finish
Fit83
Layer weight1 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Holds up against sebum movement.
- — Longevity earned through the right product, not more base.
Desk examples · bareMinerals Mineral Veil Pressed · Jane Iredale PurePressed Base
Core of the architecture
Strategic concealer
spot
Fit81
Layer weight1 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Longevity earned through the right product, not more base.
- · Gives more opacity than you said you wanted.
Desk examples · Kosas Revealer · Tower 28 Swipe Serum · RMS UnCoverup
Core of the architecture
Powder bronzer
colour
Fit81
Layer weight1 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Holds up against sebum movement.
- — Longevity earned through the right product, not more base.
Desk examples · Youngblood Pressed Mineral Bronzer
Core of the architecture
Lightweight foundation
base
Fit80
Layer weight2 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Delivers almost exactly the coverage you asked for.
- — Lets undertone show — critical on deep and olive bands.
Desk examples · ILIA True Skin Serum Foundation · Merit The Minimalist · Ere Perez Oat Milk Foundation
Core of the architecture
Powder blush
colour
Fit80
Layer weight1 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Holds up against sebum movement.
- — Longevity earned through the right product, not more base.
Desk examples · Saie Main Character Soft Matte
Core of the architecture
Long-wear lip
lip
Fit80
Layer weight0 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Adds zero opacity to the stack.
- — Longevity earned through the right product, not more base.
Desk examples · Sheer stain and tint lanes on the desk
Core of the architecture
Soft eyeliner
eye
Fit80
Layer weight0 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Adds zero opacity to the stack.
- — Longevity earned through the right product, not more base.
Desk examples · NUDESTIX Magnetic Eye Pencil · Lawless Smokey Liner
Core of the architecture
Lip liner
lip
Fit80
Layer weight0 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Adds zero opacity to the stack.
- — Longevity earned through the right product, not more base.
Desk examples · Elate Lip Liner · Zao Lip Pencil
Core of the architecture
Colour corrector
spot
Fit79
Layer weight1 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Delivers almost exactly the coverage you asked for.
Desk examples · Tower 28 MakeWaves · Ere Perez Arnica All-Cover Pot
Core of the architecture
Strategic setting powder
finish
Fit78
Layer weight1 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Holds up against sebum movement.
- — Longevity earned through the right product, not more base.
Desk examples · Kosas Cloud Set · Saie Airset Radiant · bareMinerals Mineral Veil
Core of the architecture
Flexible setting mist
finish
Fit78
Layer weight0 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Adds zero opacity to the stack.
- — Longevity earned through the right product, not more base.
Desk examples · Any humectant-forward flexible mist
Core of the architecture
Brow pencil
eye
Fit78
Layer weight0 / 3
Fit from neutral 50 · see Insights for type-score weights
- — Adds zero opacity to the stack.
- — Longevity earned through the right product, not more base.
Desk examples · Zao Organic Brow Pencil · Elate Brow Pencil
Claim literacy · makeup that borrows skincare language
Named · dosed · tested · when not to buy
SPF, treatment and hybrid claims do not thin a film. If the active is not named and dosed, you are buying mood. Full cards live on Insights — a sample of the desk:
spf
Tinted mineral SPF 30–50 in a foundation or tint
A tinted SPF earns the bag when UV is a real job that day and you will lay a continuous film. It loses the bag the moment you use it as a sheer glow with no reapply plan.
When not to buy
When you will sheer it to a stain, blot half of it off by noon, or treat it as all-day beach cover without reapplication. Half a film is half the SPF.
spf
Chemical or hybrid SPF inside a skin tint
Hybrid SPF is honest when it replaces a second step you would skip. It is vanity when it is a second SPF on top of a full mineral fluid you already wear.
When not to buy
Sensitive or fragrance-reactive days when the hybrid also carries scent; or when you already wear a dedicated SPF and the tint's SPF is just noise on the label.
spf
SPF setting powder / brush-on SPF
Brush-on SPF earns a pocket slot for reapplication over makeup. It loses the bag the day you cancel real SPF because the powder 'has SPF too'.
When not to buy
As your only UV product on a high-UV day. Powder SPF is a midday assist, not architecture.
treatment
'Treatment' foundation with niacinamide
Named and mid-list niacinamide is a nice-to-have. Unnamed 'brightening treatment' is a mood board. Buy the texture; do not pay prestige for a ghost percentage.
When not to buy
When you already use a properly dosed niacinamide serum and the foundation is thicker than you need. You are buying film, not more science.
Type-score weights (sample): Coverage match · Sebum behaviour · Dehydration behaviour — full table on Insights.
Pipeline runs
The run console
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Type scoring
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Kit build
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Architecture
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Pathways
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Tools
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Bag edit
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Coaching
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Sensitivity
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